Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

Name: Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Author: William Finnegan
ISBN: 9781472151407

William Finnegan

award won

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William Finnegan

award won

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#364 of 3,809 books · #163 in Biography & Memoir

Won the Pulitzer Prize for Biography or Autobiography (2016).

Barbarian Days won the Pulitzer Prize and William Hill Sports Book of the Year. Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

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